L.M. LEIN: THE MASON TAPES
APRIL 4, 1977
Colonel D. H. C. Mason
…Toronto, Ontario
Dear Sir;
I have but this day been told by the Archives of Ontario
that the above is the address of the Mason who travelled Lake Nipigon and
presumably the Nipigon River in 1907.
1907 is a long time ago but I have a tape recording of an
interview with a chap in Guelph who was in Nipigon in 1907. About ten years old
I would imagine.
However, I am retired to this place after spending more than
40 years in the more remote area of Canada but nearly 35 of them on the North
Shore of Lake Superior and on the shores of Lake Nipigon.
About ten years ago I became interested in the History of
Nipigon and the Nipigon area when it became apparent that no one knew anything
about it. In that time I have gathered a tremendous amount of information ( for
this area, that is ) but am short of turn-of-the-century information. In fact
the history of Nipigon is everywhere but in Nipigon.
The Archives people have told me about a diary that is on microfilm
and about many photographs that they
have (?) or copies thereof. I may be able to get a microfilm copy of the diary
but I have no access to a microfilm reader. Hopefully, I may be able to see
these photos but I won’t be getting very many capies. They want $1.50 each!
If you are the right Mason, it would be real good if you
could oblige with a cassette taping of your memories of Nipigon and the Lake
Nipigon. I am only interested in Nipigon town – Nipigon River – Lake Nipigon –
Jackfish River area – at this moment.
Any information that you may let me have will end up in the
historical files of the Nipigon Museum of which I am the summertime Curator.
I am also in communication with a young woman who was on
Lake Nipigon in 1910. She seems to be in remarkable physical condition.
If you would like to communicate with me, I am at ….
Yours truly
L.M. Lein
For reference – Mr. Robt. Loughlin, Ontario Forest
Industries
L.M. Lein to Mrs. D.H.C. Mason, Toronto
April 28, 1977
Dear Madam;
I was so pleased that you answered the letter I wrote. In the process of getting historical
information, I write many many letters
without getting that many answers.
The Rose Park area seems to have an affinity for people who
have known the north. We have Mrs. Norman Grace who, if she wasn’t born in
Nipigon, Ontario, lived there in her early years. My records indicate members
of her family being there before 1910. They ran a boarding house and it is
quite probable that your late husband might have enjoyed a meal there in 1907.
Also on Rose Park …, young Paul Dandaneau lives. I don’t
suppose that I should call him “young” but I do that to distinguish between him
and his father who was Superintendent of
Ontario Hydro’s Cameron Falls development on the Nipigon River in the early 1920’s.
From the people in the Archives, I have received a few words
about the diary – sounds more like a day-book – and a very brief comment about
the photos that they have. All other things equal, I will be going to the
Archives to have a look at the photos and read the diary. From the names quoted by the Archives, some
of the descendants of these people who are still in the Nipigon area are going
to read with much interest what I will
be writing after I have seen the
material.
What I would like to have is a thumbnail biography of Col.
Mason and a photo of him from the 1925.
This material will be in the historical files of the Nipigon
Museum. It is true that there are
probably pictures of him in the Archive collection but I am familiar with
pictures like these ( got many myself) and they rarely show the character of the person in whom we are
interested. It would be of great
interest to know what impelled Col. Mason to make a trip like this in
1907. Ordinary men didn’t make trips
like these away back then. It took
stamina, nerve and a fair amount of money that was worth a lot more then than
now. And in those days they had no fly
dope to ward off the winged fighters.
Anyway it would be most gracious of you if you would send
the photo and the biography to us. I will be herein Midland until the first
week of June. After that I will be at
the Nipigon Museum.
Yours truly
L.M. Lein
Col. Mason trip to Hudson’s Bay via Lake Nipigon 1907
Typed script as read off his diary which is in the Archives
of Ontario, 77 Grenville Street, Toronto
Account 4014, MS 143 (micro film)
Mason was no ordinary tourist. Before he even took this trip he had it all
plotted out. He had a complete list of
things that he took with him and nothing was overlooked.
He had some canoeing experiences somewhere, because he had
ordered his canoes to be built so that a tump line could be used to help the
portaging of them. Apparently, it was
something new in the Nipigon District in 1907.
It was possible that Mason’s trip was a graduation present
because he had just graduated from S.P.S. at the University of Toronto. He must have been a member of a family that
was a little more affluent than most, because in 1907 you just didn’t do things
like making a trip to Hudson’s Bay via Lake Nipigon.
In the true sense of the word what Mason kept was a day book
and not a diary. HE was good at
reporting names and conditions.
What follows now is a transcript of Mason’s day book as read
into a tape recorder by me on May 16, 1977 and typed the end of May and early
June.
By L. M. (Buzz) Lein, May31, 1977
Wed. July 24, 1907
9:30 P.M. left Lake St. Joseph for Perry Sound by C.N. O
with most outfit. Expected to find William Whitney Lailey, hereafter known as
Whit, on the train but didn’t. Put up at Mansion House. Next Morning.
Thurs. July 25, 1907
Went down to ferry, intending to go over to the depot
harbour but met Whit on the dock. He had come up by an earlier train and had
gone to the depot the night before and had just returned. The Ottawa (steamer), Capt. Birnie, was , he
said, not in port. Decided to take everything over there and wait for her
hoping that someway, we should be able to get a passage on her or someother
freight boat. Went to see the O’Gormans
and spent the afternoon helping Mrs. O’Gorman and Mrs. Westcot, the English
Church minister’s wife, prepare ‘the Hall” for an ice cream festival. In the evening, attended the festival.
July 26, 1907
Got up expecting to see the Ottawa in the harbour, but she
didn’t arrive until about one o’clock. Mrs.
O’Gorman laid siege to the Captain and, in the evening, having suffered heavily
from a second bombardment and some sharpshooting of the Doctor O’Gorman’s , he
capitulated. We are to go aboard tomorrow morning. Had tea at the Westcots by
the way.
July 27, 1907
Went down to truck all our stuff to the Ottawa. Got the last load aboard just before she
sailed. Repacked it all. Everything O.K.
except the bags Michie used in packing. They were ridiculously flimsy. The two Butterworth girls, Nellie and Agnes,
from Depot Harbour are going up on a pass.
They are quite nice, the Captain is a corker and the whole crew could
scarcely be improved on. All together, we have landed forcibly on our
feet.
July 28, 1907
Woke up to find ourselves going up the Sault River. It gets very pretty as the Sault itself is
neared. Locked through about 11 o’clock.
Weather sunny and showery by turns. Sat up on the bridge with the Captain and
the girls watching things; the
navigation of the channel was might interesting. In the afternoon it rained off and on.as
finally we ran into a fairly heavy fog bank.
The Captain told us a short story of his life. He has a farm near Sarnia, where Mrs. Birnie,
the second , hangs out. He is a big solid older Scotchman, quite jollier and is
as kind hearted as any man I ever saw.
There being no room vacant for us, we are living very comfortably in the
hold. A corner of one hatch is up for
light and air and there is plenty of room.
July 29, 1907
When we got up Isle Royale was just in sight. Packed our
stuff and came up on deck to watch things. A most gorgeous morning – clear and
a light breeze. We were passed by the
C.P.R. Steamer Manitoba and the Plummer racing to Port Arthur. The latter is
the fastest freighter on the Lakes and had gained two hours on the Manitoba
after leaving the Sault. Took two photos
of the party and watched Thunder Cape which is certainly grand. Docked at Port Arthur at noon, trucked our
stuff up to the C.P.R. Station. Nobody about
and he refused to do anything for us. Made a few purchases in town, finally got
our things checked and went over to Ft. William where we found the girls and
Captain Birnie and said goodbye to them. Got our hair cut. Hunted up Mr. Jarvis the C.P. appraiser, at
the laying of the cornerstone of the new English church – St. Paul’s. He very
kindly came into town with us, and introduced us to the Hudson’s Bay Co.
manager who cashed father’s check for $150 giving us $100 in the form of a
letter of credit on the Hudson’s Bay Co. posts. Looked up John Chisholm, now a balding
practitioner in Fort William. Had dinner at the new Avenue hotel with John and
Mrs. John and Mr. and Mrs. Jarvis. Heard
the Ft. William side of the Port Arthur Fort William disputes. Went over to Port Arthur met Glen Macdougall
who had a pretty fair practice there.
Heard what fools the Fort Williamites were. Train late so went over to the club and pow
wowed with Glen. Train at 12:00. Reached
Nipigon at 3 o’clock, eastern time and put up at the hotel.
July 30, 1907
Wakened by the porter at 8 o’clock. After breakfast hunted up the McKirdys and
the Hudson’s Bay Co. Stores. Mr. McKirdy is in Port Arthur and Barker the Hudson’s Bay Company manager not up yet. Neither canoes nor Indians have arrived. Had tracers sent after canoes. Later saw
Barker and on his advice wired E.O. Taylor a chief at Mattawa. He replied
“Indians have not yet arrived.” Whit up
for lunch. Made a few purchases at
McKirdy’s . Met Mrs. McKirdy and the two boys, George and John. Latter was at
St. Andrews last winter. Nice people. The hotel pretty sad. $2.50 per day. Decided to camp across the river but were
driven out by mosquitoes and blackflies. Accepted kind invitation to stay with
the McKirdy’s for the night.
July 31, 1907
Got our tent made mosquito proof with cheesecloth. Made more
purchases and repairs. Met Mr. McKirdy
who returned durning the night – very nice man.
Stayed for lunch. The weather both yesterday and today has been most
peculiar. At times the sky is quite
clear, and usually is quite bright but during each day half a dozen more or
less heavy showers of rain have fallen. (After lunch loaded what we required of
our stuff into one of McKirdy’s 18 foot canoes and paddled down to a place just
above the Picture Rocks just at the mouth of the river on the east side where
there is an old landing for pulpwood.
Camped there and found flies scarce and wood plenty. Had a leisurely meal, trying out our new
outfit. The baker worked well and made
some nice biscuits, were visited after dinner by Stewart McKirdy and a couple
of friends who were on the Grand Trunk Pacific staff. Here Whit tried to
fish but unsuccessful. Scenery here very pretty. Thickly wooded with medium sized Spruce and
Balsam with a few Birch and Poplars and Cedars. Red perpendicular cliffs of
considerable height showing here and there. The river here is about a half mile
wide and the C.P.R . runs along the other side close to the water; It crosses
the river just above the village.
Aug. 1, 1907
Weather fair. Have breakfast and lunch in one, and paddled
up to Nipigon. Got Mr. Barker, the Hudson Bay Factor to wire Biscotasing and
see if by chance any of the Indians recommended by Ken Ross were
available. Found they were not. Mr.
McKirdy however, has a man, Joe Martin, who is a good full blooded Indian,
speaks English, has been over the
route, has a son who is alright and who would come with him. Paddled back; had a bang up dinner and sat around the fire
singing “Jap?” and other songs for awhile.
August 2, 1907
There being a heavy north wind, we paddled across the river
and walked to Nipigon on the railway tracks for a change. No one gave us a … Walked around the country
a little, ate a lot of oranges and chocolate and walked home.
August 3, 1907
Paddled around the point to the Picture Rocks. Rather
interesting. A high wall of Red Rock
rises from the water with a ledge five or six feet above this there is a row of
hieroglyphics in rather faded red; not very different from the colour of the
rocks, but easily seen when one noticed.
There are a couple of canoes, a number of crosses, lines and dots etc.
and a queer looking buffalo or something with a number of dots after it or in
front. The figures are about four to ten
inches high. Paddled up to Nipigon and back.
Canoes expected anytime. Got a
letter from Peterborough Canoe Company to say that they were having them traced
from that end and the agent here , a very decent man, is doing all he can, I
think.
Aug. 4, 1907, Sunday
While washing dishes, we noticed quite a number of small
fishes off the dock and tried them with flies.
They jumped to perfection at a brown hackle and we landed a dozen –
eight of which ran over half a pound and were worth keeping. About two o’clock the two McKirdy boys came
in from the Bay. They had gone out before we were up to try the fishing up a
certain small stream to the east and came back with a half dozen trout
averaging two pounds. They stayed and
had dinner with us and we all paddled or rather sailed up the Nipigon together.
Whit feeling rather groggy chills and things so we were not sorry when Mr.
McKirdy insisted on our staying for the night. We got Whit to bed under about a
dozen blankets at once. I listened for
an hour or two to interesting tales of
the river by the McKirdy family , specially Mr. McKirdy. [William} ed.
Aug. 5, 1907
Up at six o’clock (a.m.) after a sleepless night with young
John McKirdy, one quarter of whose bed I attempted to occupy. Pouring rain. After breakfast helped Mrs.
McKirdy wash the dishes. The Indian maid having gone home over Sunday and not
yet having turned up on account of the rain. Judge Bun and two other Americans
are due today. The whole McKirdy family is busy getting their outfit ready for
them. Just after lunch they arrived by train and in due time started up the
river with four big canoes and eight Indians. The Judge is 78 years old and has
come here for three weeks every summer for years. He was as keen as a ten year old boy. We hung
about all day fixing up our stuff, helping the McKirdys and reading “Moosiva of the Boundaries”. Whit slept until
noon and is much better now. Tried to
have dinner at the hotel but were kidnapped by Mr. McKirdy. After dinner , Whit
played tennis for a while to the admiration of the local populace and then we
paddled down to camp.
Aug.6, 1907
Rained hard during the night but cleared off about eight.
Had breakfast and lunch in one, did a little work to our outfit and paddled up
to town. Our canoes are between Chapleau and White River and the agent has
wired White River to have them expressed on from there if they are not likely
to be sent right through. They should be along the day after tomorrow. Oh
crushing blow! Joe Martin has backed down and refused to come with us. Mr. McKirdy doesn’t know of anyone nearer
than Lake Nipigon and can’t be sure of anyone there though he knows some good
men there who should be available.
…Clarke, a mail carrier for Revillon Bros. and he has a corking good
man, a white man, Jack McKecknie, who gave us a few minutes of very instructive
conference. On the strength of what he told us, we got Barker the Hudson’s Bay
Co. manager here to wire Missinaibi to see if
they could send us two good men. Have not yet heard reply. We intend to
get to the Bay if it is at all possible, weather much milder.
Aug. 7, 1907
Gorgeous morning, though we had a shower during the
night. About ten a breeze from the south
sprang up. Spent morning much as yesterday plus a little experimental cooking.
Paddled up to town about 2:30 p.m. The agent says our canoes should arrive
tomorrow. Saw Mr. Barker. The answer he got from Missinaibi was “Sorry, no men
were available.” Got word of two good men, McLaren and another one from Fort William who went around this
year with the officials who pay the treaty money. They went in near Dinorwic, down the Albany
and up by Missinabi. Wired the Indian agent at Fort William to see if they
could be got. Saw a party off up the river. Leach, the Chief Fire Ranger of the
Reserve (Nipigon Forest Reserve)ed. With a couple of his men, the local Dr.
Bryan, a lad in the Grand Trunk Pacific office, Cairns, was going up for a
holiday and four girls – Mrs. Bryan, a daughter of Leach’s and some others –
they are all going up to Nipigon House on the steamer(Ombabika) for a week. Paddled home and had a bang up
dinner; sat around the fire until driven in by rain about 11:30 p.m. This has been the finest day we have had yet,
bright and warm with a nice breeze from the south. Warmer weather is bringing
the mosquitoes back. We have to smoke the tent out every night.
August 8, 1907
It must have rained nearly all night, but not hard, the tent
was quite dry but the mosquitoes got in in spite of us. Paddled up to Nipigon in the afternoon. The
agent promises our canoes to-night. Hung around until they arrived about nine
o’clock p.m. The railway people have handled them pretty roughly. The stern of the upper one was cracked in one
place. The Peterborough people, have placed
the bow and stern tharts about a foot and a half too near the center. Alright otherwise and much admired by the
populace. Paddles quite satisfactory.
Stayed at the McKirdy’s for the night.
August 9, 1907
Puttered away most of the day at the canoes repairing the
damage, moving the thwarts and putting in straps to hold extre paddles, axe
handles and fishing rods. About four o’clock Stewart called to say Mr. McKirdy
had a guide for us. It turned out to be
Andrew Alexie (Andrew Lexie). Mr. McKirdy’s
best man who had just come in from Long Lake, where he had been to get
canoes for the “French” company. Mr. McKirdy thinks we could not have got a
better man in this part of the country.
He is very reliable, speaks good English, is a rattling good canoeman
and keen on the trip. He went up to the
Albany (Fort Hope) once by this route with Mr. McKirdy. Frank Buscher, a young man but recommended by
Mr. McKirdy will make second man being the best available. We are lucky to get Andrew and he will manage
Frank all right. He is busy tonight getting his things ready.
August 10, 1907
Intend to start today or bust. Got Andrew at the canoes.
Went over the outfit with him. Wrote to
the Peterborough Canoe Company to make claim for damages to the canoes
estimated them at $10.00 Wrote Christofferson about the Indians mentioning
Watson Bains proposed visit to his post. Asked him to send the railway I sent
him to Gerald Campbell. Wrote E.O.
Taylor to stop the Indians, if necessary and send the tickets to Gerald and
wrote to tell him so. Wrote an account of our doings to father. Finally got everything packed and left
Nipigon after a tender farewell to the McKirdy’s at 4:30 P.M. Paddled through Lake Helen and up the river
about three miles and camped in an Indian clearing on the left bank about six
o’clock. A good place except for a half
dozen cows each which is blessed with a bell and a deep interest in our tents.
Turned in at 10:30 mighty glad to have got started at last. Rain fell after
dinner.
August 11, 1907
It rained and thundered off and on during the night but
cleared by the time we got up at six thirty a.m. Hot off at 8:30 a.m. Hope to do better
hereafter. Paddled up against a fairly
swift current reaching Camp Alexander at 10:15 a.m. Passed a party of tourists
coming down and at the portage met Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs. Americans who left Nipigon a half hour before
us. Took a little over two trips on the
portage which is not long and leads to a little stream [ Fraser Creek L.M.L.]
tributary to the Nipigon on the right bank(?).
Up this stream about a quarter of a mile we took the long portage at
11:15 a.m. We left Frank here to get our lunch ready and the rest of us started
over with our loads and took them about three quarters of a mile, coming back
then for lunch. Wood very wet and scarce and Frank not at all recovered from
the good time he has been having in Nipigon, so we didn’t finish lunch until
1:45 p.m. Took the Long Portage, two and a half miles, in three stages which
kept us busy until 4:45 p.m. Whit and I
walked over to the rapids near Lake Jessie and they were worth it. Took a photo of them from a high bluff
overlooking them. Andrew and Frank had never seen a canoe portaged with a tump
line before and thought that the thwart in the center of the canoe… until we
showed them how to use it. They say now that it is a fine arrangement. Lake Jessie is much like parts of the St.
Joseph River. This part of the country
has been burned over and the growth is mostly smallish birch and poplar. Weather now is fine. Mild and clear with west wind. Camped 6:30
p.m. the Narrows, on the east side, between Lake Jessie and Maria, just above
the swift water. A newly married couple from St. Paul are camped just across
the river with two Indians, just across the Narrows. The man came over to see
if we had a mosquito net for him from Mr. McKirdy which we didn’t. Got my first speckled trout – two of them- in
the rapids and had them for dinner.
Never tasted better fish. Turned
in at 11 o’clock after inspecting the new moon.
August 12, 1907
Up at 6:30 a.m., rather cloudy but the clouds well broken.
Continued so all day and only rained a drop or two once or twice. Under way at 8 a.m. Split Rock Portage is in
one of the finest parts of the river.
Lake Maria narrows down at the north end to a very steep rocky gorge,
Caribou Mountain being on the right side. An immense wall of reddish rock with
birch etc. scattered over it and a fringe of spruce along the top. A quarter of a mile up, the
rapids occur, being split in two by a towering rock. Photographed the west rapids from below. The clouding prevented further photographing.
Began the Portage on the west bank at 9:30 and finished at 9:50. The next
portage was Island Portage, over an island. Reached there at 10:30 and left at
11 o’clock. Our first small accident – Andy dropped our canoe and dented the side
on a rock. Applied a little stop leak and will put a wooden patch in
later. Never saw such a batch of
Juneberries (Saskatoons?lml) , stopped there for a while, while all hands
filled up on them. At 11:20 reached Pine Portage, one and a half miles. A tourist party was just leaving there coming
down. Found a very surly man there in
charge of a team and wagon who demanded three dollars to take our stuff over.
Dumped the stuff and prepared to add one canoe when the man objected saying
that would be another load. Told him to
go to blazes and dumped the stuff out again.
Andy and Whit started over the first half of the portage while Frank got
lunch and I fished. No fish to be
seen. Whit and Andy came back with the
boss of the team, who gave the surly man blazes, and induced him to take the
canoe. Our friends of last night
arrived. They are very green and can’t make much out of their Indians. Ask us
to get them information about camps etc.
After lunch, to which Andy , with our consent offered an unaccepted
invitation to the surly man loaded our stuff on the wagon and crossed the
portage. Half way found Judge Bun’s
party encamped and Tony Evans and the Major Bonnycastle, fire rangers, building
a log house and photographed them. Finished the portage at 1:40. Little Flat
Rock Portage(two hundred and thirty yards) at 2:10. Camp Victoria Portage at
3:15. Finished at 3:50. Andy then brought us up what is known as the backways
by means of a couple of lakes to the
east of the river. Two very short
portages, two little lakes and a three quarter mile portage landed us above
Virgin Falls on a Bay of Lake Nipigon just 40 miles from Nipigon. Camped there
in a magnificent birch and poplar forest with Revillion Bros steamer in
sight. After a much needed dinner, Andy and
I paddled over to fish but fell in with Leach, Dr. Bryan and Cairns party who
were very comfortably camped there. They all agree that Andy is the best man in
the neighbourhood. They are going up on
the steamer on Wednesday and as it is blowing great guns, I daresay we are too.
To bed at 11:30 p.m. as we don’t have to do much tomorrow.
August 13, 1907
Up at 8:30 with a cold west wind blowing. Got out for breakfast in sweaters and warm
clothes. After breakfast, we puttered around camp, washing clothes, dubbing
shoe pacs, cooking etc. while Andy and Frank went over to the rapids to try and
get some fish. They returned with two
pike ( or pickerel as we call them in Muskoka) which we had for lunch. After lunch, Whit tried to shave with Frank’s
razor which he sterilized carefully. He
also boiled the brush whereupon all the bristles came out. Nothing daunted, he went ahead with the
family nail brush and tar soap which left a sticky layer on his face. Finding the razor was unable to plow through
this, he sharpened it up on a whetstone and then after several attempts managed
to clear off a square inch on one cheek.
The effort, however, was too much for him and he sank fainting to the
ground. He has since pacified rank for
the loss of his brush by showing him how much sharper the razor is now. Photographed Whit shaving and also the
camp. Had a visit from Cairns who
offered to lend Whit a real razor. Paddled over to the steamer where we found
half a dozen fire rangers building a log shack.
They are camped down below the falls on the west bank. Walked down to the falls, taking a photo of
the rapids, above the falls. One of the
falls from the brink, and one of Whit fishing with the falls and fire ranger’s
camp in the background. About 6:15 p.m. our Indians appeared paddling
upstream. They had visited a camp and
got a tin full of minnows – shiners- Andy rigged up two hooks on a line, one of
which he put through the head and the other
trough the body. We stood on the point
below the rapids and threw the minnows into the swift water letting the line
play out very fast as it went down. At the second cast, he hooked a beautiful
trout that weighed five and seven eighth pounds an hour after catching. He was
wildly excited and ran up to the camp to
show it off and to weigh it. They had no
scales there but Mr. Leach asked him for the skin. We got four big pickerel,
one of which we threw back. The other three weighed six pounds. Unfortunately, Whit and Frank had gone back
to camp with my Kodak but I photoed Andy and his fish on return there. Had trout for dinner and it just went around.
The Indians liked it best boiled but Andy fries it very well. About 9:30 Whit and I paddled over to the
camp where they were all sitting around the fire singing. There are five Varsity men among the rangers,
al being unrecognizable on account of their beards. The part reminded me very
much of the old Muskoka photographs.
Robinson of S.P.S. with whom I have worked all year in the lab, didn’t
recognize me nor I him. After a few Varsity
yells etc. , we came home and turned in very late – midnite. Fortunately the mail is not arrived so the
boat will not be able to start before about ten o’clock. Beautiful night. Clear and no wind. Almost
feel like paddling up but we can’t afford to be laid up.
August 14, 1907
The mail didn’t arrive last night. We had lots of time, so we got up at
eight-fifteen. After breakfast of rice
flapjacks and pickerel which was the best yet. We packed up etc. and went over
to the steamer about noon. The mail
arrived but we waited for Donald Murchison, the Hudson’s Bay Co. factor at
Nipigon House , who finally arrived with three canoes. Photographed him in one of them. Also the
Leach, Cairns and Bryan party on the stern of the Ombabika. The weather is beautiful no wind. Almost
wished we had taken a chance with the canoes, but it is just as well as we
cannot afford to take chances. Had a
pretty fair meal on the boat. Finally
started at 3:30 p.m. The Islands around the river are pretty and this place
should be a second Muskoka sometime.
Quantities of beautiful birch.
Found quite a sea running from the mouth west on the open lake. Glad we didn’t paddle. Murchison has about seventeen of his Indians
on board and a lot of freight. Old
Wilson, the oldest Indian at Nipigon House is a great looking old card. Writing rather difficult on account of the
vibration from the single cylinder engine.
This is the first boat on Nipigon Lake. She was built here, the boiler
etc. being hauled up in winter – an awful job. The United States Steel Company
have another boat called Pewabic.
Reached Nipigon House at 8:15 in broad daylight. Old Donald Murchison having a very credible
load of Scotch, (and also Leach), was very excited over his arrival and
insisted on the whistle being blown continuously to rouse his people, some of
whom began firing off their guns in the
neighbouring wigwams. He goes out once
or twice a year and makes the most of his time. He has been here for seventeen
years and has a very pretty post, with large poplars around his house which he
planted himself. Great time getting the boat into the warf. A wild crowd of Indians met us and we went up
to the store and ate mixed candy. Went
over and visited the chief’s wigwam. The
Indians here have no tents. Saw a couple
women making fish nets. Bark wigwam very
primitive but comfortable and most picturesque.
Birch snow shoe frames drying outside. Ojibway pattern. The Indians here are a weird looking
crowd. Not physically equal to Grand
Lakers. Use flint and steel and
flintlock guns somewhat. Slept in dining salon, one cot between us, which, by
toss, fell to me.
August 15, 1907
Waked at 5:30 by the cook getting breakfast. He is John
Michelson, son of the old man at Nipigon.
Born north of Moose Factory, gave us some information about Moose and
Albany. The captain is Jack Hunt, a fine
man, quiet and the coolest I ever saw, knows the lake like a book. (Cold damp
morning, very low clouds; rained during the night). Got away at six o’clock. A beautiful bay surrounded by some high
islands, heads of some of them in the clouds.
To the west, Barn Island is tabletopped. Grand Trunk Pacific cache; two cache keepers
a couple of fire rangers in tents and across the bay a couple pairs of wigwams
where the Indians are making canoes. Got
some fresh vegetables for the boat – nice peas, lettuce, carrots and
radishes. The channel is very narrow as
with most of these rivers there is a sand bar.
To turn around, we had to run up of the river (Wabinosh?) to an
expanse. Passed close to the north Barn
Island from which point it is so shaped. A magnificent rock. Wish the light was
better for a photo. Reached Mud River at 10:45, began to paddle ashore to see
the Grand Trunk Pacific cache, but the two cache keepers and two fire rangers
came off to the steamer so we returned.
Left 11:15. In crossing to
Ombabika Bay got the full sweep of the eastern side of the Lake and were glad
not to be paddling. S.W. wind and a big sea.
The captain ran in close to the south peninsula of Ombabika Bay and we
took our canoes and after bidding a tender farewell to the Ombabika and photographing her. We paddled along in
the lee of the point as far as possible and then struck across for the mouth of
the river. Found it by the black water,
that of the Bay being muddy. Got rather wet coming across but no harm done.
Andrew knows his business and is not afraid of a little sea. Stopped at the
ache at the mouth of the river to empty out water and met a mighty fine lad –
Judras – from Ottawa. French and most cheerful
and decent man I ever met. He is
all alone as his partner is having a holiday.
The fire rangers have gone up to the post. Accepted an invitation to a
meal. Excellent bread – his own make.
Gave him our new net and he gave us twenty feet of good light net which
delighted Andrew. Departed at 5:15 with
many handshakes and promised to meet in Toronto. The Ombabika is not a large stream, not much
more than 100 feet wide, deep and slow current.
The banks are thick wooded to water.
Frequent mild, small rapids. The geological survey map shows these very
well. First to the left three or four
hundred yards and then one to the right about the same length which we left at
7:30 although Andrew wanted to camp. Paddled till 8 o’clock before ( passed
three Indians at the first portage, from whom Andrew got some information), we
found a place to camp on a small island in a wide part of the river, scarcely a
lake, river this far very pretty. The
monotony of the shores is relieved by outcrops of grey rock. Flies and
mosquitoes are very bad. Couldn’t bother
coking anything. Managed to keep them
out of the tent. The weather is very warm.
AT THIS POINT WE WILL LEAVE THE DAY BY DAY PART OF THE
JOURNAL AS MASON IS NOW GETTING WELL UP THE OMBABIKA RIVER AND GETTING OUT OF
THE NIPIGON WATERSHED AS HE WORKS HIS WAY UP TO SUMMIT LAKE.
August 16, 1907 (They are on the Ombabika River)
The river after this very crooked and monotonous muskeg
shores, very large tamaracs and spruces near the river and smaller ones inland.
Passed the Grand Trunk Pacific line. Camped at 7:10 on a spot of dry land,
probably near Pigeon Lake. Old Indian camp.
Indian inscription on bark hanging on bush by water. Neither of the
Indians can read it.
August 17, 1907
Made portage at 11:00 o’clock and found Pete Hot and six
other Indians just finishing the portage.
They are coming from Mud Lake to Nipigon House on some business for Murchison. Whit and I gave them P.C hone(?)
home(?)
August 18, 1907 is Sunday and they are getting farther up
the Ombabika all the time. At 10:20 a.m. , they came to a portage across a
horseshoe of rapids. And here they
found Thomas Jim, Mr. McKirdy’s trader
with two men. He is a Cree from Fort
Hope. He is married and lives at
Nipigon. He is a very lively individual, about twenty-seven, and evidently a
cracking good man. He greeted Andy with
piercing yells and much hand waving, and on request gave him much valuable
information and drew a map from there to the Ogoki. He (Jim) has gone down the
Albany over to Moose and returned by Abitibi.
Excerpt: By the way, while sitting around the fire at Summit
Lake, a night hawk persisted in sitting down with us. Frank said that if you hit, or tried to hit
one of these birds, there would be thunder, nevertheless he persisted in
throwing sticks at it. Of course he
attributes the present storm to this. At the same time we heard a partridge
drumming continuously after dark. Andy says this means high water in the fall.
MASON IS NOW ON THE HEIGHT OF LAND (SUMMIT LAKE) LEADING
DOWN INTO JAMES BAY.
August 19, 1907
Excerpt: …at ten o’clock in the morning we passed another
small stream coming in from the left and a little while later came upon two
young Crees from Fort Hope, with their wives. They had stopped for lunch and
the women were cleaning fish and scouring
pots. They had a large bark canoe – about three fathoms – painted red. One man was going to the mouth of the
Ombabika for some supplies that he had left there, the other right down to
Nipigon and the wives were going along to see the Country…
August 20, 1907
Excerpt: … the Geological Report says that it is four and a
half miles from where we are now to the Ogoki.
We reached there at 9:30. It is a pretty river with great lagoons along
the north bank. Saw several poles
bearing bear skulls and bundles of bones.
Andy says this is to ensure catching a bear next year. He says they also
put up tobacco and other valuables with the skulls. Near French channel passed a deserted wigwam
and soon after beheld the old man in his red handkerchief, head and shoulders
appearing above the gunn’ls of a very small and narrowly barked canoe. Andy hailed him and drew into the bank for a pow-wow. He told Andy a little about the channel and
stated that he was going to get some moose meat he had left at his old wigwam and
offered to give us some. We gathered
that he was living up near the channel.
Whit went along while Andy and I waited. Andy said the old man was his
mother’s brother, and didn’t know him, which he considered a great joke,
especially since he had forgotten to introduce himself. The introduction came off when the old
gentleman came back, and we received his present of Moose meat and gave him a
couple of plugs of tobacco, and a pound or so of flour and a little salt. The meat looked like mummified leather and we
took about two pounds, including bones.
The old man – Kechanee – is over seventy . He lives almost entirely on
rabbits and fish, but lately he has had a little flour occasionally from
passers by in exchange for meat and fish. He is too old now , to visit a post
and get his clothes from the travelling traders… attire almost exclusively in
red.
August 21, 1907
Andy discovered some houses a hundred yards back in the bush
so we went back and examined them.
Thomas Jim, McKirdy’s trader, had a store there last winter and a couple
other families had log shacks near by.
The shacks were very warmly built of round logs, roof and all, plastered
over with mud and grass. There was a
wigwam frame beside one, the bark rolled and placed on a scaffolding . Windows glazed with cotton, roof covered in
places with tar paper and log dog houses behind. Several small snowshoes with frames made of
two pieces and twine lacing at the end.
August 22, 1907
We reached Eagle Rock Lake at 4 o’clock. At 5:15 with a good
wind from the south west we made a portage into Lake Abazotikichuan. About half way down we met a party of Indians
from Revillion Bros. on their way from the new post at Fort Hope to the
Ombabika post. Andy was delighted to see them because one of them was his
nephew. All camped together at seven o’clock on a near by point on the west
shore of the lake.
MASON ARRIVED AT MAKOKIBATAN LAKE ON THE ALBANY ON AUGUST
24, 1097 FOR NIPIGON PURPOSES, WE WILL DROP THE ENTRIES AS THEY ARE NO LONGER
RELEVANT FOR OUR REFERENCES.
